Axial Lighting useful for some coins and purposes

[Larry]

Here I used axial lighting which is about the same as tipping a coin toward the light.  It's as though the light was coming to the coin directly from the lens.

Axial lighting brings out any toning and can highlight some details.  In this image, you'' be able to see evident of die clashing in the fields to the right of the tea chest,
inside the word SUGARS. 

I have manufactured a few axial lighting devices of my own design and given them to a few good friends who are numismatographers like me.

[Zantetsuken]

Beautiful effect Larry. The image practically glows. I would love to try this with some of my images. Thanks for sharing.

[Larry]

Here are a few images to show what my axial lighting devices look like...

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This was an early version, and the glass was too large to fit the frame, so I taped it to outside of frame. Notice that it was fashioned from two identical 5x7 picture frames.  My wife picked up about a dozen of the frames at a garage sale for 25¢ apiece.  I attached 2 very small hinges to ends of the frames after they were properly aligned.  The 'heel' of the lower frame rested on the edge of the drawer, and the desk leaf reduced the light in my eyes.  But it was convenient, as all of my coin images are taken at my desk, using the leaf.  This version can also sit on the leaf.  The desk leaf allows my camera to aim straight down, whereas a tripod cannot be placed close enough to a desk to get the camera over a subject coin.

Dowel rods came from Home Depot and DAP Fun-Tak or Loctite Mounting Putty (same stuff, manufactured by Henley) was used to form the baton-like balls on the end of a short piece of dowel rod.  I have two sizes of 'batons,; one about 3" long and one about 4" long.  One will support the upper frame in any position desired, and I adjust the frame angle as desired while looking through the viewfinder at the coin.  I can also adjust the lighting while watching the effect of changes.




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This is a later version which can set on any flat surface.  Instead of a frame, the lower platform of this 'device' is made of 3/4" curly maple.  It is heavier than a frame and provides better stability.  One Ott-Lite is placed inside the drawer.  Any kind of lighting can work, but white balance preset should be repeated any time lighting is chenged.  It takes some time to arrange the lighting in the beginning but is very quick once familiar.  I can set up or break down my setups in a minute or two.




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This last view shows the light very bright.  Remember that only part of the light is reflected down toward the coin; roughly 50% travels on through the glass. 

Important... If using a tripod, use a piece of black velvet to somehow cover the upright shaft of the tripod to prevent reflection of the upright into the photo.





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NOTES: 

•  The upper frame and glass will help reduce dust from landing on the coin, but both sides of the glass should be carefully cleaned when necessary.

•  When shooting, I use a Giotto Rocket Air Blaster to blow dust specks off of the glass rather than touching the glass and leaving smudges, smears or fingerprints.

•  Axial lighting can be supplemented buy regular lighting for different effects, but unless the other lighting is of the same color temperature, highlights will be of a different color from the axial lighting's color.

[coinsarefun]

Wow, neat set up you have there Larry

[Zantetsuken]

Awesome Larry. I didn't realize this would have such a complex setup.  But it yields great results. Thanks for the info.

~Daniel.

[Larry]

Here are a few more good ideas for those wishing to try axial lighting...

•  Since you may want to eliminate all light from striking the coin directly, you can place some object, like a rubber eraser or a pack of cigarettes (cough, cough) to block the direct light.  Just place the object between the light and the coin.  Then the light will go over the coin to the glass and be reflected directly downward from angled glass to coin.

•  Axial lighting is tremendous for proof coins, and the angle of the glass for white fields in only a few degrees from the angle for black fields.  Just be sure to observe through the camera the effects in changes of angle of the glass.

•  Some folks use a plain sheet of glass, but since I am taking Coumadin, I wanted the edges of the glass to be safely inside a frame.  I ordered glass from a fine glass shop that is only three blocks form our home.  I do not use optical quality glass which is about ten times as expensive and really not necessary.  But to protect yourself, I would have the glass 'seamed and polished,' which eliminates sharp edges.

•  Just ask for the finest 'float glass' that they carry, then you will avoid any distortion.  If you use glass that comes in picture frames, you will almost certainly have some distortion.  This can be verified by watching the coin through the camera as you change the angle of the glass.  If you see no waviness as you move the glass, it is probably of high enough quality to do the job.

•  Axial lighting is for more serious numismatographers, imho.  Like ebay sellers for example.  ; )